Marie duQuesnay lives on an exposed hill around 850ft above sea level in Pembrokeshire and has been a seed guardian for nine years.

Seed guardians are volunteer gardeners who grow and preserve historic vegetable varieties.

There are currently more than 800 varieties of seeds in the Garden Organic Heritage Seed Library. Some of the seeds include rare landrace varieties which are adapted to specific growing conditions, heirloom varieties that have been saved over generations and varieties that are no longer available to buy. The library is based at Garden Organic’s headquarters in Ryton Gardens near Coventry and the collection is called the National Collection of Heritage Vegetables.

In total, there are 185 amateur gardeners volunteering as seed guardians and growing heirloom beans, peas and other notable vegetables all across the UK to protect biodiversity and the food of the future.

Ms duQuesnay is growing heritage varieties of Brussels sprouts, beans and the Duke of Albany pea despite the challenges of the altitude of her garden, cold winds, stormy weather and regularly being enveloped by cloud.

She said: “It’s been fantastic to have the opportunity to play a tiny part in such an important project as the Heritage Seed Library.

“It is so sad to see that the intensification of farming is narrowing the range of what’s grown and coupled with regulations (especially in the EU) around what seeds are certified for sale, we’re losing very local varieties. And once they’re gone, that’s it.

“We’re going to have to start to grow different varieties and different crops. And we need the Heritage Seed Library like never before. It will save lives and livelihoods I’m sure of it.”

The UN’s food and agriculture organisation estimates around 75 per cent of crop diversity has been lost between 1900 and 2000.

The seed guardians grow the plants in their gardens and allotments, collecting, cleaning and drying the seed and sending it back to the Heritage Seed Library so that it can be conserved. They also provide feedback on factors like performance, pest and disease resistance as well as taste.

Catrina Fenton, head of the Heritage Seed Library, said: “Up and down the country seed guardians are carefully carrying out conservation work with us, and we simply couldn’t do the work we do without their help.

“I rarely get to meet these amazing volunteers in person, so it was an absolute pleasure to chat with Marie when we were interviewed by Jonny Massey of Radio 4’s PM programme – her enthusiasm and dedication is exactly why the Heritage Seed Library has been around for almost 50 years.

“This work is more important than ever to ensure diversity in our food systems is available for future generations and to develop better adapted plants in a changing climate.”

Each year, up to 150 varieties of heritage seeds and included in the annual Heritage Seed Library seed list. Varieties have included amaranth Mrs McGhie, White Belgium carrots, Table Talk pea and the Mescher lettuce.

Between the beginning of December and the end of February, members of the Seed Library can choose six free packets to seeds to grow.

For more information about the Heritage Seed Library or to become a seed guardian visit www.gardenorganic.org.uk/hsl.

Gardeners, we have now weathered our first “real” cool snap of the season, if but for only a few days with evening temperatures becoming downright cold in my opinion.

So, go ahead and roll your eyes, cause ‘everyone’ who knows this gardener, knows I’m partial to warm weather, though an infrequent ‘cooling off’ period is a welcome respite considering our blistering summer.

Hopefully, you relocated ‘sensitive’ plants indoors or provided them protection, as winter will arrive soon. A slight smattering of rainfall graced some portions of SETX, and though I’m grateful, the amount received was insignificant for most of us.

Perhaps more rain will soon be on the horizon?

Last week I stated weed control is sometimes complicated, which is certainly true if a gardener waits too long to begin a management strategy.

The review covered weed control measures utilizing numerous methods and further detailed how to control weeds utilizing pre- and post-emergent herbicides and herbicide classifications: such as contact, systemic, selective, or non-selective herbicides and specific weeds that each type of herbicide eradicates.

Before using any herbicide (synthetic or organic), we must understand the products intended use: weed type or group, application requirements (temperature sensitive), dose rate (application rate) and application frequency.

It is important that each of us follow the herbicide manufacturers label guidelines before applying herbicides to protect our environment!

Last week we discussed weed identification- a critical step in developing a weed control plan of action.

Create a weed management plan, then select the best herbicide option, to combat weeds such as broadleaves, grasses, perennial or annual weeds. Preemergent herbicide active ingredients are also an important factor for halting unwanted weeds and products always list a range of plants they control.

Preemergent herbicides are effective on annual weeds, though other weeds need to be controlled using post-emergent applications. Effective weed control and management begins with choosing the right active ingredient for the problem weeds, then applying it correctly.

My recommendation is always to use granular herbicides (if possible), simply due to ease of application. Read and follow product label details thoroughly and follow distance applications from desirable plants, which will avoid injuring them.

Wintertime weed management and having a ‘plan’ for what you can do now to keep lawn weeds from becoming unmanageable, weed infested areas before spring arrives.

As soil temperature cools, the application of preemergent herbicides to eradicate cool season weeds, such as annual bluegrass or burweed is now. According to AgriLife Extension turfgrass specialist, Chrissie Segars, Ph.D., who states, “applying the correct preemergence herbicides now to lawns will disrupt the germination and emergence of unfavorable plants in the spring. Applying preemergent herbicides in the fall will help to rid your lawn of grassy weeds like annual bluegrass, rescue grass, broadleaf weeds like henbit, chickweed, Carolina geranium and lawn burweed (sticker plants).”

She also recommends fall preemergent herbicide regimens, beginning when soil temperatures reach 70 degrees. As environmental conditions can be drastically different year to year, some weeds will germinate later in the season but applying products in a timely manner creates a preemergent “program,” which stays ahead of weeds.

For best results, one application of a preemergent herbicide in the spring and fall, as these two applications will greatly reduce the number of annual weeds in your yard.

Herbicides are not 100 percent effective, especially after heavy rains follow the application or when application timing is missed. Utilizing a mixture of pre- and post-emergent products will catch “breakthrough” weeds from the original application while they are immature.

Activating the herbicide after application by providing water using a sprinkler or irrigation system is highly recommended.

Most granular preemergent products require ¼ to ½ -inch of water to dissolve properly. Don’t wait for rain, this can be risky!

‘All in One’ Products

In case you missed my previous comments regarding “Weed & Feed” products, while they tend to be popular among gardening enthusiasts, homeowners, and some gardeners use them (not me). I do NOT recommend using them as a fall or winter turfgrass management tool!

We are entering a dormancy period for warm-season grasses, and their growth is slowing. It is too late in the season to fertilize our lawns, especially with nitrogen fertilizer.

Adding a nitrogen-based fertilizer now promotes growth, and winters freezing temperatures will cause substantial turfgrass damage. The final nitrogen fertilizer application should be no later than six to eight weeks before the average first frost date, which for our area is typically mid-December but could occur as early as mid-November.

Approximately 1 inch of water per week is the summertime turfgrass irrigation recommendation for actively growing grass. Once fall temperatures arrive (now), fall rain should be enough.

Allowing grass to visibly wilt before application of supplemental water is a good rule of thumb. If we are receiving typical fall rain, you can turn the sprinkler system off or water as needed until the grass goes dormant.

Don’t overwater, but moisture in the soil is necessary until grass goes dormant, protecting it from winterkill.

Spring preemergent herbicide applications typically start when soil temperatures reach 50-60 degrees, for us it is typically somewhere between January to March. Identify the weeds you have and note their location and create a “plan of attack” for getting your warm season turfgrasses off to a good start in spring.

So long for now fellow gardeners. Let’s go out and grow ourselves a greener, more sustainable world, one plant at a time!

Thank you for sending me your questions and please continue sending comments and questions to jongreene57@gmail.com.

 

Once again, our local weather has been amazing! In my opinion, this is the perfect time to be outdoors performing all gardening tasks: planting vegetable gardens, tidying up landscapes or sprucing up flower beds.

The only thing missing from our amazing weather pattern: rainfall. Eventually, rain events will return but as we wait, don’t forget to mulch, mulch, mulch-every gardener’s best friend.

Remember seeds need light to germinate, adding 3 to 4 inches of mulch in garden beds will deter weed seed germination and minimize use of herbicides.

Last week we reviewed weed groups: annuals, biennials, perennials and common turfgrass lawn types for our region. This week (part 2) we are shifting the discussion and determining the best approach for controlling and managing weeds.

Weed control is sometimes complicated but can be achieved utilizing multiple methods. The simplest way to control weeds is to manually dig each one up individually, a good choice if there are only a few in your landscape.

For large areas crowded by weeds (without turfgrass) an option is to cover the weeded area with heavy-duty plastic or a tarp. Allow the cover to remain securely in place 3 to 4 weeks.

Allow the sun’s energy (heat) to destroy the weeds. Using pre- and post- emergent herbicides (organic or chemical) forms can also help gardeners manage weeds.

There are numerous types of herbicides, so let’s ‘dig in’ (pun intended). Note that it’s important we understand the different types of herbicides, how they perform, when to apply them (for best results) and follow application directions.

Gardeners, let me reiterate my point, before using any herbicide please read & follow the manufacturers’ label directions for personal & environmental safety.

Follow the dosage (concentration) and application rates exactly, and never use a greater concentration of herbicide than is necessary.

Pre-emergent herbicides

Apply before weeds germinate. For warm-season annual weeds, apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early spring (Jan-Mar), before the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees F. Weeds that germinate later, during the summer require a second application (Jun-Jul). For cool-season annual weeds, apply early fall (Aug-Nov). Note that this varies year-to-year, completely dependent on our temperature.

Post-emergent herbicides

Apply once weeds have germinated. They are effective when weeds are still small, less than 4 inches high.

Contact Herbicides

As the name implies, cause damage wherever they touch a plant. They must cover all parts of the plant: leaves and stems, including the top and undersides of leaves, to be most effective.

Systemic Herbicides

These types of herbicides are absorbed throughout the plant. They are applied to the soil surrounding the plant’s base, and to the plant itself. They move through the plant-foliage to roots, stems, and other plant parts. These herbicides work exceedingly well on perennial weeds, since the herbicide moves to all parts of the plant, killing the root, tuber, and rhizome growth. Systemic herbicides require more than one application at 6-to-8-week intervals, especially on weeds, which are more difficult to control.

Selective herbicides

Eradicate one type of plant without damaging others. Often a good choice for use on turfgrass lawns, which have a single type of weed problem.

Nonselective herbicide

These types of herbicides are indiscriminate weed killers and will destroy almost any plant they contact. It is imperative to be extremely careful when using these types of herbicides. Dosage and herbicide handling are critical for personal and environmental safety.

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service recommends the following herbicides for controlling specific weeds listed:

Sandbur, grassbur, spur weed, cocklebur – pre-emergent, apply by March 1; Brands – PreM by Lesco; Amaze Grass & Weed Preventor by Green Light; Surflan, A.S. by Southern Ag.; Weed & Grass Preventor by Lilly Miller; weed Stopper by Lawn & Garden Products.

Virginia Button weed – Post emergent in St. Augustine grass lawns, such as dicamba (Banvel) or products containing dicamba (Trimec) provides some control with two or more applications in spring and summer.

Crabgrass – germinates April- October in many areas, note few of these herbicides provide season-long control. DCPA (Dacthal), simazine (Princep), besulide (Betasan, Pre-san), benefin (Balan), dithiopyr (Dimension), oxadiazon (Ronstar), oryzalin (Surflan), prodiamine (Barricade), pendimethalin (Pre-M) and napropamide (Devrinol) are some of the materials available for preemergent crabgrass control.

Chickweed – Spray preemergent herbicides such as simazine, dithiopyr, dacthal, oryzalin, pendimethalin and isoxaben in fall.

Henbit – Dicamba, MCPP and 2,4-D provide effective control in the fall and early spring.

Yellow Sorrel – Apply preemergent herbicides such as dacthal, oryzalin (Surflan), pendimethalin (Pre-M), isoxaben (Gallery), dithiopyr (Dimension) and oxadiazon (Ronstar) in early spring.

Prostrate or Spotted Spurge – Dacthal, pendimethalin and Surflan provide preemergent control of spurge in warm season turfgrasses. Apply in early spring to be effective, 2nd application is necessary 60 days from initial application.

Quack & Torpedo grass – Sadly, there is but one herbicide which works on this weed, glyphosate. Personal safety is critical before attempting use. Wear gloves, a long-sleeved shirt and don a face mask (respirator) when using this product. Paint weeds with a brush to keep from damaging nearby plants.

Nutsedge or nutgrass – preemergent herbicide metolachlor (Pennant) is labeled for the control of yellow nutsedge (nutgrass). For post-emergent control of sedge, the herbicide imazaquin (Image) is labeled for purple and yellow nutsedge.

Chamber bitter weed – preemergent herbicides with atrazine applied in the early spring prior to germination. Post emergent herbicides also with atrazine are effective when applied to young weeds.

There are plenty more weeds that could be listed, but these are commonly found in SETX. Follow along for next week’s final installment, winter lawn care. So long for now fellow gardeners, let’s go out and enjoy Shangri La Botanical Gardens Annual Scare Crow Festival. Visit shangrilagardens.org for more information. Hope to see you there!

Send comments and questions to Texas Certified Master Gardener John Green at jongreene57gmail.com.

Agave huachucensis plants are native to the Arizona climate’s bright sun and rocky, quick draining soil. They can handle -5 degrees too!

I took a week off and headed to Arizona for some last-of-the-season heat. The soil that I saw wasn’t. Plants were rooted in mostly sand and rock, but flowers, trees, and shrubs have a way of thriving there. I enjoyed guessing what plants I saw and considering what little care and what harsh conditions they experienced. Bees and butterflies were still abundant!

As I was hiking around Arizona, I saw what looked like Potentilla fruticosa growing in extremely arid conditions. I looked it up, and I was wrong. This plant was known as Apache Plume, or what the Navajo called “feather-tipped plant.” The flowers have five petals, and the shrub looks similar in shape to Potentilla, but the botanical name is Fallugia paradoxa. The seed-head resembles clematis seed-heads. Though it is not native to our region, I was intrigued by this southwestern native shrub and its many uses. The stems grow straight as arrow shafts and were often used for that. Stems were often used for cradleboards or weaving tools, as well. It is not Potentilla, and it probably would get powdery mildew here. Wrong plant for our place!

They did have a frost in Flagstaff while we were there. The volunteer community gardeners had diligently wrapped the pretty hanging baskets on lampposts and containers in parks. It looked like Halloween had come early! The next day, all were unwrapped and looking lovely. It can be done! Hard to believe, but it doesn’t look like frost will happen around here until late October. However, watch and listen to the forecast! We should be ready with our “ghost” costumes for our plants. Reminder that summer bulbs other than dahlia should be pulled out soon—before frost—and allowed to dry. I will go into storage of dahlia and other summer bulbs after we have a killing frost.

After being gone, I was relieved that I had planted perennials, shrubs, and trees at home that can handle some heavy rains and wide swings in temperatures. The landscape seemed fine upon our return. Only a couple houseplants showed signs of drought. Pretty good for 10 days away! I watered the houseplants deeply before leaving, and I also pulled them back from the windows. We kept the house in the 50s, as well. A cool temperature slows down houseplant growth and they literally “chill” out while you’re away.

It may or may not be too late, but trim Brussels sprouts to encourage fattening sprouts. Cutting off the growing center stem will send energy to the little buds on the sides. You want those to grow now or you will have nothing to eat!

Gardener is away—the pests will play. Before I left, my sprouts looked fine—no sign of cabbage moth larvae. But, uh-oh. Upon our return, we had an infestation! Luckily, I found the well-camouflaged caterpillars (small, medium, and LARGE) at the top of the stem, what I needed to cut off anyway. Lesson: I should have sprayed more BT NOW product for controlling caterpillars before leaving!

My other veggies are done or struggling. It is time to pull out cucumbers, zucchini, and cut down the bean plants, especially if leaves are not green and growing or if no flowers appear.

I found LONG and FAT purple bush beans when I returned. These will be sorted into piles of edible and “save for seed.” The swollen but not lumpy pods will be fine in a quick stir-fry or steamed for dinner. I will let the lumpy bean pods dry then pop out the beans to finish drying and save for seeding next year.

Pick any green tomatoes now and allow to ripen in a brown paper bag with a banana or apple. The fruit emits ethylene gas while it ripens and helps the tomatoes ripen, too. Pull out those tomato stakes or cages, brush clean, and store in a spot out of the weather for next year. In spring before putting back into use, give them a wipe with 10 percent bleach solution or ammonia to clean off any overwintering bacteria.

Part of my adventures away included a visit to restored ruins from early mission settlements in Texas. The San Jose Mission in San Antonio has a simple “green roof” over one entry. The prickly-pear cacti absorb the sunlight and any water left standing on the roof. I bet that the thicker shade provided by the cacti keeps it cooler than under other wooden roofs in the complex. Another kind of succulent—like sedum mixes—might be a good addition on a garden shed. Hmm. I am always open to new ideas.

Back home, leaves are falling. If you have a light coating (like from my birch that drops leaves slowly over a few weeks), mow with a mulching mower and chop those leaves into a fine carbon-rich organic layer. These bits filter into the soil and enrich it for a healthier lawn. Don’t wait to mulch these leaves. If you only plan to rake or “blow,” don’t wait for the leaves to create thick mats around trees smothering your lawn. Remove the leaves regularly through the next six weeks. I encourage you to put leaves in a chicken-wire corral, compost bin, or an out-of-the-way pile for use as “brown” in your winter compost with “green” vegetable scraps. A daily addition and quick stir will yield beautiful soil for your garden’s health next year. Maybe I am not that lazy, just cheap.

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I call myself the Lazy Berkshire Gardener because I don’t want to work too hard in my gardens. I want to enjoy them. I find it easier to observe my landscape and let the compost happen, the water pool up, or daisies to self-sow. I look for ways to do the minimum task for the biggest impact. For example, mulching is better than spraying and much better than weeding all season. I look for beautiful, low-maintenance plants that thrive in or at least tolerate my garden conditions. Plus, I’m willing to live with the consequences if I miss something.

For 48 years, University of Illinois Extension Master Gardeners have measured success by gardens planted, insects identified, produce harvested and the millions of hours volunteers have logged by helping others learn to grow.

From farms and small towns to suburbs and the inner city, more than 2,600 volunteers statewide put their mission of helping others learn to grow into practice by providing gardening education and outreach in their communities. Take your love of gardening to the next level by becoming a Master Gardener in 2023.

This year, there are two online training options– self-paced or hybrid with live sessions.

“Our online training is a great opportunity for folks who need more flexibility to participate,” said Extension State Master Gardener Specialist Candice Anderson. “Both options have self-paced components that can be completed at your own pace.”

Both training options may be taken from the comfort of home on a desktop, laptop or tablet. Participants will be introduced to in-depth horticulture content through 13 modules, including soils and fertilizers, plant diseases, entomology, pest management, organic gardening and more. The training includes videos, a manual, reading materials and quizzes. A strong internet connection is highly recommended.

After completing the training, volunteers participate in educational programs in their communities. Those opportunities may include speaking at garden clubs, civic groups, or schools, answering calls or emails at garden help desks, establishing demonstration gardens that serve as educational tools and educating citizens on how to establish community gardens.

The self-paced course starts Oct. 2 and can be completed in 14 weeks with approximately four to six hours of weekly work. The course costs $300, and registration is open until Sept. 11.

The hybrid course starts Sept. 12 and includes 12 weeks of hybrid online materials and in-person sessions on Tuesday mornings. The live sessions may be accessed remotely or in-person at an Extension office, depending on the local requirements. Registration is open until Sept. 1. The cost is set by the county providing the training.

Both Master Gardener training programs are coordinated by Extension staff at the county level. Training options, dates and availability may vary by county. For more information or to fill out an application form, contact your local Illinois Extension Office at go.illinois.edu/ExtensionOffice.

University of Illinois Extension provides equal opportunities in programs and employment. If you need a reasonable accommodation to participate in programming, contact Candice Anderson at 217-935-5764 or by email at mille116@illinois.edu. Early requests are strongly encouraged to allow sufficient time for meeting participant needs.

Let me start by saying, Wow! It’s amazing how many emailed responses I received from around the country regarding last week’s gardening topic. Fortunately, most of you were kind, informing me of a mistake.

The embedded image was of an Eastern Swallowtail rather than a Monarch butterfly, and I apologize for the error.

What are Mycorrhizae (pronounced mi-cor-rhi-za)?

Literally translated, mycorrhizae mean fungus root, which are fungi that grow in association with a plants root system where a symbiotic relationship is developed between the two.

The fungi colonize the root system of a plant, providing increased water and nutrient absorption capabilities while the plant provides the fungi with carbohydrates “sugar” created from photosynthesis.

Another added benefit of the symbiosis: mycorrhizae offer the plant increased protection against numerous pathogens.

Approximately 95 percent of all land plants live in association with mycorrhizal fungi. These fungi encompass numerous groups within the fungi Kingdom, which are divided into two related groups: ectotrophic and endotrophic, which are based upon the position of the fungal hyphae and relation to plant root tissue (cells).

What exactly are hyphae (hy-pha)?

Long, thread-like branching structures (tiny filament ‘highways’) that absorb surrounding nutrients, allowing them to be transported throughout the fungus body (thallus). Ectomycorrhizal fungi cover the root cells, without penetrating the roots. Conversely, endomycorrhizal fungi penetrate and enter plant root cells.

Gardeners, some of you may never have heard the term mycorrhizae before today. These fungi are necessary, living and growing on plant roots, with most all plants having some form of mycorrhizae growing on them, which have become an extension of their root system.

These fungi are found growing on vegetables, flowers, bulbs, trees, and shrubs. Mycorrhizae help the plant absorb and hold both major and minor nutrients, increase the plants tolerance to stress and drought, while inhibiting disease and other pathogens in the soil.

The key takeaway about the symbiotic relationship between mycorrhizae and plants’ center on the plant’s ability to produce carbohydrates through photosynthesis and sharing energy (sugar) with fungi, in return for water and nutrients sourced from the soil.

Benefits of Mycorrhizae:

Root System Growth

• Mycorrhizae fungi supports faster plant establishment.
• Allows water and nutrients access beyond the root zone and deliver them to the plants vascular system.
• Increases absorption area by as much as 50 percent
• Increases overall root biomass.

Nutrient Efficiency

• Absorb and deliver nutrients directly to the roots.
• Improves nutrient utilization including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, plus all micronutrients.

Water Absorption

• Absorb and transport moisture from beyond the root zone to the plant’s roots.
• Increases water utilization capability by the plant, improving stress tolerance by increased drought resistance.

Speaking of mycorrhizal fungi, there are two types: Endomycorrhizal and Ectomycorrhizal.

Endomycorrhizal fungi form a relationship with about 90 – 95 percent of the plant families. These fungi penetrate the root cortex (cells) creating a nutrient exchange structure (highway) within the root cells.

Ectomycorrhizal fungi form a relationship with up to 10 percent of the plant families. These fungi mainly pair with conifer and hardwood trees. They do not penetrate the root cell walls but form a sheath around the root, creating nutrient exchange structure known as a “Hartig net”.

As always, I recommend taking soil samples from each gardening area and submitting them for detailed analysis. Contact your local county extension office for more details and where to submit samples for analysis.

The analysis cost is minimal, typically less than $20, but the report and information provided (usually within 2 weeks) are invaluable! Utilize the information in the report to amend the soil and note the reports phosphorus level, since high phosphorus in the soil will inhibit mycorrhizae formation, which means purchasing mycorrhizae and adding it to the soil will be a waste of money.

Further note, mycorrhizae are inhibited by chemical fertilizers but not organic fertilizers. Utilize well-decomposed compost, but not fresh compost as it will also inhibit the fungi growth.

It is important when using mycorrhizal fungi in your garden, to make certain the correct fungi form for the plants you are working with, so READ THE LABEL.

As an example, I have two containers of Mycorrhizal, one is only Endomycorrhizal fungi, while the other has four-strains of Endomycorrhizal fungi and seven-strains of Ectomycorrhizal fungi. My point being the container with both fungi forms wouldn’t be used on vegetables and flowers, but would be used on trees, shrubs, and woody ornamentals.

The next time you’re out and about, buy some mycorrhizae for your plants, as they are going to love that you did!

So long for now fellow gardeners, let’s go out and grow ourselves a greener, more sustainable world, one plant at a time!

Thank you for the comments and questions (please be kind).

John Green is Texas Certified Master Gardener. If you have gardening questions, email jongreene57@gmail.com.

Gardeners, it’s hot outside, so schedule gardening chores early in the morning or late in the evening, drink plenty of water and keep a sweat towel handy … enough said.

A quick few words if you planted a spring vegetable garden, as most are struggling now or if like mine, a pleasant ‘recent’ memory, with all plant remnants removed.

It’s time to top dress each garden bed with amendments to add structure and to reinvigorate the soil, by adding worm castings, composted manure, topsoil, and compost. Use a broadfork, garden fork or spade to turn the soil amendments (these garden implements are less damaging to the microbiome created in the garden spot) into the soil.

Create a homogeneous mixture throughout the soil by turning them into the soil, moderately. Doing this will allow nutrients to be readily available for ‘replanting’ garden beds, since some nutrients (micronutrients) might be in short supply or completely depleted due to the spring gardens’ harvest!

Plant a summer garden with vegetables that can handle Texas’ heat, such as peas (cow & pinkeye, purple hull, black eye), okra, Chinese long bean, and various varieties of squash, and numerous melons.

Informed gardeners understand the Monarch butterfly population is collapsing, drastically dwindling due to environmental pressure created from habitat loss and increased (incorrect) pesticide application.

We all hold a share of the blame but now is the time for each of us to help them, one planting at a time. SETX each of us needs ‘wake up’ because this is our problem too! Let’s help these beloved pollinators before it’s too late! How can you help them?

Start by learning about them and other pollinators. Make time to read about them, learn the plants they need to survive and reproduce. Stop using pesticides indiscriminately and be willing to ‘sacrifice’ a few fruits and vegetables to vectors (insects), and if necessary to control vectors, begin with organic products (typically least invasive approach) before choosing a more dramatic approach.

Always follow pesticide use labeling instructions-explicitly! Using more than necessary is detrimental to our beneficial insects and pollinators!

Let’s begin creating a personal Monarch butterfly habitat, starting by making our garden areas into a tantalizing feasts, a veritable ‘smorgasbord’ for them. Do this by learning the plants which they require not just for survival but to allow them to thrive.

Begin by adding Monarch-favored plants into each garden area, flower bed, vegetable garden, hanging basket, patio planter and more. Fill the landscape with plants they love and watch your garden come to life, bursting with color!

Monarchs are beautiful and an interesting species of butterfly. They have conspicuous orange and black color patterns that commands attention wherever they fly, and they fly enormous distances along migratory paths.

Their daily travel can be up to 100 miles, which is an amazing feat, considering the diminutive size, weighing about ½ a gram (the approximate weight of two sunflower seeds)!

They migrate from North to South America and return, staying in warm environments because they can’t over-winter in cold climates. Monarchs are the only butterfly species, which have a 2-way migratory path identical to many bird species.

This is why providing them with food sources along their journey is critical for their survival but more importantly allows them to reproduce!

Setting the Stage: Plants that Attract Monarchs

Monarchs require an abundance of nectar daily, as they are heavy feeders and must visit hundreds of flowers daily to meet their carbohydrate requirements. As they fly between blooming plants, they help us by distributing pollen along the way. There’s no secret to luring Monarchs to your garden, simply provide them with the nectar-rich plants necessary to survive and reproduce! Here is a list of a few plants to entice Monarch butterflies to dwell in your own personal butterfly habitat.

Plants Which Attract Monarchs

WILKWEED — is considered one of the most beneficial plants to Monarchs for numerous reasons. It’s a major food source for adults but also used by them to lay their eggs. When the eggs hatch, forming larvae, the caterpillars consume the milkweed plant, readily devouring the plants foliage.

LANTANA — is another ‘instant’ food source for migrating monarchs needing nourishment. Fortunately (SETX), Lantana is a perennial plant for us, providing near constant flush of blooms they find irresistible. I plant Lantana in hanging baskets, planters, along pathways, even tucked into vegetable garden spaces. Guarantee you’ll notice the increased numbers of pollinators visiting your garden spaces!

VERBENA — with its many colors and hues brings in beneficial insects but purple-colored flowers are great for attracting Monarch butterflies. They are encouraged by the sweet scent and plenty of nectar.

CONEFLOWER — especially purple coneflower is excellent at attracting monarch butterflies. The over-sized bloom, and vibrant color entices them during migration, while also producing a large amount of nectar and pollen.

BUTTERFLY BUSH — this shrub is a butterfly magnet, but also attracts bees and hummingbirds. The plant is carbohydrate-rich, a powerhouse (due to the copious amount of nectar produced) which Monarchs find intoxicating!

COREOPSIS — needs to receive 8 hours of sunlight and prefers well-drained soil, though it will grow in less-than-optimal conditions with little fertilization needed to remain healthy & vibrant. Butterflies will show their appreciation!

COSMOS — are annual plants, providing lots of blooms, which are colorful additions to any garden space. Daisy-like species that are extremely easy to grow from seeds, requiring little to no maintenance, and even thrive in adverse growing conditions.

SUNFLOWERS — every butterfly species is attracted to sunflowers. They are easy for butterflies to locate, with open flower heads for easy feeding. They are easy and inexpensive to plant from seed. Plant them throughout your garden spaces to create a visually stunning backdrop while enjoying the beneficial visitors to the garden!

So long for now fellow gardeners, let’s go out and grow ourselves a greener, more sustainable world, one plant at a time! Readers, thank you for the questions! Keep sending them to me.

John Green is a Texas Certified Master Gardener. Email him at jongreene57@gmail.com.